FAQ

• Why do some replica shops claim concentrations of 30%, 40%, 50%, while Atelier Replique lists 15%–30%?

  High concentrations are mostly a matter of marketing. Some shops that claim to sell products at “Extrait de Parfum” concentration of 40% or 50% are, in fact, just adding large amounts of solvents such as DPG, then counting them as part of the aromatic composition and diluting the rest to a so-called 40%. Technically, yes, the fragrance will fall into the Extrait de Parfum category, but in practice it is diluted down to 15–20%, since solvents (DPG, IPM, TEC, etc.) are odorless and serve only as helpers to dissolve dense or crystalline ingredients like Ambroxan or Vanillin.
  
  A vivid example is Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait de Parfum. A whole 30% of its formula is the odorless solvent Triethyl Citrate (TEC), whose only function is to dissolve a large amount of crystalline materials: 19.50% Ambroxan, 12.30% Evernyl, and 2.20% Ethyl Maltol. In reality, it is diluted not to 40–50%, but to 30%. If we count TEC on equal terms with alcohol as a solvent, the true concentration of aromatic compounds is 21%, which technically makes it simply Parfum. Still, this little trick gives marketers the right to label it Extrait de Parfum, since the fragrance is indeed very strong and persistent. I don’t engage in this nonsense — I state the real final concentrations.

• Why do different compounds have different concentrations? Why not make all fragrances Parfum?

  Modern perfumery has long established the most effective range of concentrations for fragrances — 10%–25%. Anything below this range, according to standards, cannot be called perfume anymore and is considered closer to grooming products, like cologne.
  
  On the other hand, higher concentrations, as in niche or artisanal perfumery, are often called “Extrait de Parfum,” sometimes reaching 30% and driving prices sky-high.
  
  But in reality, longevity and sillage are not determined by concentration alone — it’s the composition itself that matters. For example, you could create a citrus scent and dilute it to Parfum, but it won’t last longer just because of the concentration. By nature, citrus materials are highly volatile, so the fragrance will still fade quickly, and at higher strengths it will only smell harsher, rougher, and less pleasant.
  
  Every fragrance has its own optimal concentration where it smells and performs best. For citrus scents, this ideal range is 10–18% (Eau de Toilette – Eau de Parfum).

• Why can’t I smell a fragrance on myself after a couple of hours?

  This is very common and is explained by a natural process called olfactory adaptation or “anosmia to familiar scents.” Our nose quickly gets used to a constant stimulus, and receptors stop sending the signal to the brain so that we can notice new smells around us. Otherwise, a person would be “drowning” in their own scent cloud.
  
  Concentration also plays a role: the higher the intensity (e.g. Parfum), the faster receptors get overloaded and shut off. Lighter compositions (like Eau de Toilette) can sometimes be perceived longer, exactly because of their lower intensity. This is why it may seem like a “strong” perfume disappears faster. But in reality, it still remains on skin and clothes for many hours.
  
  People around you will continue to smell it, especially if the base is built on woody, amber, or musky notes. Not perceiving it yourself doesn’t mean it’s gone — it’s just how our olfaction works. To reduce anosmia, I recommend spraying the perfume away from the nose. The worst choice is applying it on the chest, directly under the nose.

• How and where should I apply fragrance?

  Everyone chooses for themselves, but here’s what I don’t recommend:
  • spraying into the air and walking into the cloud — wasteful and ineffective.
  • rubbing perfume on skin — it heats the fragrance, destroys the top notes, and distorts the composition.
  • spraying under clothing or under several layers — no one will smell the trail, and you won’t enjoy it either.
  
  Fragrances are tested on blotters — thick paper strips at room temperature. On skin, a fragrance will always change slightly, reacting with skin microbiota and body heat, which speeds up evaporation and alters the opening. Few people mention this, but perfumes often perform best on clothes, and for women — even on hair. On clean fabric, the fragrance smells exactly as intended by the perfumer, while body warmth helps prolong its presence and trail.
  
  Since anosmia is stronger when perfume is near the nose, I prefer spraying on shoulders, the back of the neck, and the outer side of hands or wrists. This way, anosmia is minimized, and I can still catch whiffs of the scent after many hours.

• What are compaunds made of?

  Modern perfumes almost always represent a complex composition combining natural ingredients (essential oils, absolutes, CO2 extracts, and resinoids) with synthetic molecules. Natural materials give the fragrance depth, richness, and beautiful nuances, while synthetics make it possible to create clean, stable, and efficient structures, which are then enhanced with naturals.
  
  Modern perfumery generally follows the French style, characterized by a proportion of 70% synthetic ingredients to 30% natural ones. This ratio can be considered the golden mean: synthetics provide good technical performance, while naturals prevent the fragrance from smelling overly chemical.

• Where does Atelier Replique source its materials?

  For creating compounds, I use only the best raw materials available on the market. After years of analyzing quality and working with different suppliers, I’ve narrowed down my list to a few reliable shops from which I purchase ingredients regularly. These suppliers are scattered across the world, and I am deeply grateful to them for supporting this craft and enthusiasts like me:
  
  • Perfumiarz (Poland)
  • Scentfriends (Germany)
  • Hermitageoils (Italy)
  • Fraterworks (New Zealand)
  • DirectPCW (France)
  • Perfumer Supply House (USA)
  • De Kruiderie (Netherlands)

• How safe are compaunds?

  There are many myths suggesting that perfumery is “harmful to health” or “causes hormonal imbalance.” In reality, modern fragrance formulas are strictly regulated by international organizations (such as IFRA), which strictly limit or completely ban potentially dangerous substances. Very often, people online confuse outdated practices with modern standards. For example, phthalates, once used as solvents decades ago, are no longer used in perfumery today. What you find in stores now undergoes multiple levels of safety testing.
  
  It’s important to understand that synthetic materials in perfumes are safe in the concentrations used by perfumers. In fact, they are often purer and more predictable than naturals, because their molecules are always identical and free of random impurities. Natural ingredients, despite being “from nature,” can sometimes be more allergenic or unstable. That’s why the belief that “natural is always better” isn’t entirely accurate in perfumery.
  
  If a person doesn’t have an individual allergy, wearing perfume poses no health risk. Perfumes don’t affect hormones and don’t accumulate in the body — they either evaporate into the air or wash off the skin. The only real risk comes from misuse of undiluted essential oils, which can irritate the skin. In everyday use, modern perfumes are completely safe.

• Why can’t a 100% copy be made?

  It’s impossible to recreate a fragrance 100% identically, even with advanced technologies such as GC/MS (gas chromatography–mass spectrometry). While this method can indeed break down a perfume into components and reveal many molecules, it doesn’t always detect trace amounts of substances that may be critical to the scent. It also struggles with certain types of ingredients, such as unstable molecules or some polymers. As a result, even the most detailed analysis leaves “blind spots.”
  
  Additionally, the industry uses captives — new molecules developed by fragrance houses that are not sold on the open market and remain exclusive to those companies. If a fragrance contains a captive, even knowing its structure doesn’t help, since you can’t obtain the material without direct access to production. This ensures the originality of formulas.
  
  Finally, the recipe itself is key: precise proportions, blending techniques, raw material maturation, and even the specific batch of natural oils all affect the final scent. GC/MS can only show a list of ingredients, not the actual recipe. This means a copy may be similar, but it will never be 100% identical to the original — which is precisely what preserves the value of authorial perfumery.